Walk your dog on a leash

Welcome to this issue. In this issue of our newsletter, we will take a blow of eye to walk your dog on a leash, one of the things more important than your dog that enjoy learning in dog training.

Walking on leash is something that will have a practice with your dog chien.Tirant is a common problem and unless corrected at an early age, he will obtain more difficult to correct the older of gets it dog.

When you allow your dog without any correction, your dog is convinced that it is correct to traction.Et as you continue your walk, he think he is rewarded to draw! This is obviously not the message you want to send.

If your dog withdrew and you remove it, it will continue only get harder. It will be fun for him! Therefore, you train him to walk correctly on the leash.

To begin to walk, still stand and hold left several treats with both hands.Keep your hands close to your corps.Chaque times that your dog looks at you, him praise and give a treat. Or, if it is just sitting or standing still, are praised and give a treat. You want to know that it is good.It will be soon Please note that the Act of attention to you is rewarded.

If your dog begins to lean forward or begin to walk forward, look towards the rear of your body or take a few steps backward, but not remove. Hold your hands against your body and even the peuplement.Il has perhaps tension on the leash, but just wait.Once your dog slows its pull, or when it looks for you, to give verbal praise and extend your arms down at your sides and give him a treat.

Continue to praise your dog, until such time as it progresses towards the end of the laisse.Si withdrew to the point where it was tensions, not to say anything. Once that your dog releases tension, then you can even once, her rent.

When your dog is standing next to you, you can begin to marcher.Dire (e) the name of your dog and the command "go" or "let walk" and begin to walk forward.This command must be spoken to the right until the dog moves forward.

If your dog walking properly without pull forward, continue to walk and reward him periodically with praise verbal and tasty treats.

If you see that your dog is getting ready to pull ahead, stop walking and stand still.Your dog will wonder why you stopped walking so that it will look towards vous.Une times he verbally him praise, give him a large and give him a treat, you begin to walk forward.Repeat this every time that your dog is getting ready to pull ahead.

It will not take him long to realize that when her collar is tight, if you do not follow him rather walk stops.Therefore, it will not want to walk lightly.

At the beginning of this exercise, you will want to practice in your House or your backyard points this way, your dog will have a chance to walk on the leash in surroundings contrôlé.puis, once he is at ease here, you can walk on the sidewalk.

As mentioned in the last chapter, you want to set your dog to success, not rupture.Si you want to give him every chance to be rewarded.

Because this exercise training takes lots of practice first, you can use instead of friandises.Vous croquettes pieces can take it a walk in one of his meals and meal of this time that your dog can walk without needing much correction and reward façon.Une, you can start giving sweets instead of this.

Until next time, all the best for you and your dog. sure you retrieve box resources below for more information .Ressources good dog training can help to make the process of training your dog, easier and more enjoyable.

Barking dogs, Understanding it and dealing with it

Some owners seem to want their dogs to stop barking, period: a good dog is a quiet dog, and the only time that barking’s permitted is when there’s a man in a black balaclava and stripy prison outfit, clutching a haversack marked ‘Swag’, clambering in through your bedroom window. Dogs don’t see barking in quite the same light. Your dog has a voice, just like you do, and she uses it just how you do too: to communicate something to the people she cares about. I don’t think that barking is necessarily a bad thing – in fact, I think it’s encouraging that my dog wants to “talk” to me, enough so that I can overlook the stentorian qualities of his voice (which, in enclosed spaces, is positively overpowering) in favor of his desire to communicate with me. It’s the thought that counts (even though I feel better-equipped to stand by this sanctimonious belief when my ears are sheltered safely behind industrial-quality ear-plugs). Unfortunately, the language barrier between dogs and humans is pretty well impermeable, which means it’s up to us to use the context, the body language of our dogs, and the circumstances of the vocalization to parse meaning from a volley of barks. So why do dogs bark? It’s not easy to say (it’s like trying to answer the question, “Why do humans talk?” in so many words). Let’s start off by saying that dogs bark for many different reasons. A lot of it depends on the breed: some dogs were bred to bark only when a threat is perceived (this is true of guarding breeds in particular, like Rottweilers, Dobermans, and German Shepherds); some were bred to use their voices as a tool of sorts, to assist their owners in pursuit of a common goal (sporting breeds such as Beagles and Bloodhounds, trained to ‘bay’ when they scent the quarry), and some dogs just like to hear themselves talk (take just about any of the toy breeds as an example of a readily-articulate dog!). However, all breed specificities cast aside, there are some circumstances where just about any dog will give voice: * She’s bored * She’s lonely * She’s hungry, or knows it’s time for a meal * Something is wrong/someone is near the house * She’s inviting you to play * She sees another animal * She needs the toilet If your dog is barking for any of these reasons, it’s not really realistic for you to try to stop her: after all, she’s a dog, and it’s the nature of all dogs to bark at certain times and in certain situations. Presumably you were aware of this when you adopted your friend (and, if total silence was high on your list of priorities, you’d have bought a pet rock, right?). Of course, there are times when barking isn’t only unwarranted, it’s downright undesirable. Some dogs can use their voices as a means of manipulation. Take this situation as an example: You’re lying on the couch reading a book. Your dog awakes from a nap and decides it’s time for a game. She picks up her ball, comes over, and drops it in your lap. You ignore her and keep on reading. After a second of puzzled silence, she nudges your hand with her nose and barks once, loudly. You look over at her – she assumes the ‘play-bow’ position (elbows near the floor, bottom in the air, tail waving) and pants enticingly at you. You return to your book. She barks again, loudly – and, when no response is elicited, barks again. And this time, she keeps it up. After a minute or so of this, sighing, you put down your book (peace and quiet is evidently not going to be a component of your evening, after all), pick up the ball, and take her outside for a game of fetch. She stops barking immediately. I’m sure you know that respect is an essential part of your relationship with your dog. You respect her, which you demonstrate by taking good care of her regardless of the convenience of doing so, feeding her nutritious and tasty food, and showing your affection for her in ways that she understands and enjoys. In order for her to be worthy of your respect, she has to respect you, too. Something that many kind-hearted souls struggle to come to terms with is that dog ownership is not about equality: it’s about you being the boss, and her being the pet. Dogs are not children; they are most comfortable and best-behaved when they know that you are in charge. A dog has to respect your leadership to be a happy, well-adjusted, and well-behaved pet. In the situation above, there was no respect being shown by the dog. She wasn’t inviting her owner to play; she was harassing her owner to play. In fact, I’d even say bullying. And even worse, the behavior was being reinforced by the owner’s capitulation – effectively, giving in to this behavior taught her that to get what she wants, she has to make a noise – and she has to keep it up until her goal is achieved. Affection and play-times are obviously necessary aspects of life with a dog, but they have to be doled out on your own terms. If she learns that she can get what she wants by barking, then your house is going to become a Noise Pollution Zone (and this is not going to endear you to your neighbors, either). To prevent this bullying behavior in your dog from assuming a familiar role in her repertoire of communications, you have to prove to her that you’re not the kind of person that can be manipulated so easily. It’s simple to do this: all you have to do is ignore her. I’m not talking about passive ignorance, where you pay her no attention and simply continue with whatever it was you were doing – you need to take more of an active role. This means conveying to her through your body language that she is not worthy of your attention when she acts in such an undesirable manner. The absolute best and most effective thing for you to do in this case is to give her the cold shoulder. When she starts trying to ‘bark you’ into doing something for her, turn your back on her straight away. Get up, avert your eyes and face, and turn around so your back is towards her. Don’t look at her, and don’t talk to her – not even a “no”. She’ll probably be confused by this, and will likely bark harder. This is particularly true if you’ve given in to her bully-barking in the past – the more times you’ve reinforced the behavior, the more persistent she’s going to be. In fact, the barking will almost certainly get a lot worse before it gets better – after all, it’s worked for her the past, so it’s understandable that she’ll expect it to work again. As in all aspects of dog training, consistency is very important. You must ensure that you don’t change your mind halfway through and give in to what she wants – because by doing so, you’re teaching her to be really, really persistent (“OK, so I just need to bark for ten minutes instead of five to get a walk,” is the message she’ll get). But what can you do in other situations where bullying isn’t an issue and you just want her to stop the racket? If you want to get the message across that you’d like her to cease fire and be quiet, the most effective thing you can do is to use your hands. No, I’m not talking about hitting her: this is a perfectly humane, impact- and pain-free method of conveying that what you require right now is peace and quiet. Here’s what you do: when she’s barking, give her a second to ‘get it out of her system’ (it’s a lot kinder, and a lot more effective, to give her a chance - however brief – to express herself before asking her to be quiet). If she doesn’t calm down under her own steam, reach out and clasp her muzzle gently, but firmly, in your hand. She’ll try to shake you off, or back away, so you can place your other hand on her collar to give you greater control. This method is useful for two reasons: firstly, it effectively silences the barking (since no dog, no matter how loud, can bark with her mouth shut!). Secondly, it reinforces your authority: you’re showing her through direct physical action that you’re a benevolent but firm leader who will brook no nonsense, and who won’t balk when it comes to enforcing your guidance. Hold onto her muzzle and collar until she’s stopped trying to break free: only when she calms down and stops wriggling does it mean that she’s accepted your authority. When she’s still, hold on for one or two more seconds, then let her go and praise her. In addition to this short-term fix, there are also a few things you can to do to reduce your dog’s need to bark in the first place. The number-one cause for unwanted barking (as in, the kind of barking that’s repetitive and is directed at nothing) is nervous, agitated energy – the kind she gets from not getting enough exercise. Most dogs function best with one and a half hours’ exercise every day, which is a considerable time commitment for you. Of course, this varies from dog to dog, depending on factors like breed, age, and general level of health. You may think that your dog is getting as much exercise as she needs, or at least as much as you can possibly afford to give her – but if her barking is coupled with an agitated demeanor (fidgeting, perhaps acting more aggressively than you’d expect or want, restlessness, destructive behavior) then she almost definitely needs more. Fortunately, the fix for this problem is pretty simple: you’ll just have to exercise her more. Try getting up a half-hour earlier in the morning – it’ll make a big difference. If this is absolutely impossible, consider hiring someone to walk her in the mornings and/or evenings. And if this is impossible too, then you’ll just have to resign yourself to having a loud, frustrated, and agitated dog (although whether you can resign her to this state remains to be seen). The second most common cause of excessive vocalization in dogs is too much ‘alone time’. Dogs are social animals: they need lots of attention, lots of interaction, and lots of communication. Without these things, they become anxious and on edge. If you’re at home with your dog, you’re not paying attention to her, and she’s spending a lot of time barking at what appears to be nothing, she’s probably bored and lonely and would benefit from a healthy dose of affection and attention. Recommended reading If you’d like more information on unwanted behaviors that your dog’s exhibiting, you’ll probably be interested in taking a look at Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a complete, A-Z manual for the responsible dog owner, and deals with recognizing, preventing, and dealing with just about every problem dog behavior under the sun. You can check out Secrets to Dog Training by clicking on the link barking dog.

Does your dog chew grass?

My dog crops grass like a cow. He eats it with gusto whenever he encounters it, to the extent that my friends have begun to refer to him, jokingly, as ‘The Ruminant’. This habit of his doesn’t bother me at all, since it seems to have no ill-effects on him whatsoever - although, when I’m standing outside in the cold waiting for him to relieve himself during one of his infrequent small-hours toilet calls (normally his timing is much more considerate), it’s hard not to hop impatiently from foot to foot while he enthusiastically tears out the mandatory five to seven mouthfuls of grass, chews thoroughly, and swallows, instead of just getting on with the task at hand. Unless your dog’s digestion is suffering unwanted upheavals from his grass-eating habit, it’s not really a problem. Dogs have been eating grass since the dawn of time (or at least, of the species) with few ill-effects, aside from the odd bout of vomiting - and really, this is one of those things that seems to bother owners a lot more than their dogs; most dogs, will simply re-ingest the vomitus and go about their day unfazed. Truthfully, nobody really knows why dogs eat grass. There are a variety of theories as to why animals that are widely regarded as carnivores would willingly consume moderate quantities of vegetation. One of said theories pertains to the fact that dogs are not, actually, carnivores. They’re omnivores, which literally means, “eat anything”. This theory postulates that the modern-day dog eats grass in a deliberate attempt to supplement his diet with nutrients that are missing from his daily meals. The main crux, thrust, and gist of this argument centers around the idea that dogs, as omnivorous animals, are eating too much meat and need to balance this out with some greenery on the side, much as you or I might crave a nice tart salad to go with our steak. If you ask me, this is nonsense. First of all, most of us feed our dogs primarily on kibble, which contains the full spectrum of fully-absorbable nutrients that dogs require (or at least, high quality kibble does; I can’t vouch for the quality of supermarket-brand dog food). If you’re feeding your dog on meat alone, whether canned or fresh, there may be some substance to this theory – dogs need a wide range of vitamins and minerals for optimum health, most of which are not contained within fresh meat. It’s true that canned meat has some added nutrients; the main problem with canned food is that it’s too soft and jelly-like to maintain healthy teeth and bowels. Dogs fed primarily on canned food are far more prone to developing dental disease at a relatively early age (not to mention an increased incidence of constipation and flatulence, from the lack of fiber and roughage). As far as dog food goes, unless your dog’s on a specific, prescribed diet, kibble should constitute the main part of his diet – you can add a few spoonfuls of canned meat for variety and temptation, if you like. Another popular theory is that dogs use grass as a sort of natural emetic: that, since a nauseous dog lacks the phalangeal structure necessary for the good old ‘finger down the throat’ move, he’ll resort to nature’s bounty as an alternative. It’s true that grass does sometimes make dogs vomit – those tickly stems can irritate the stomach lining, and there have been a few occasions when I’ve seen dogs vomit up a chunk of something that’s proved to be indigestible, and along with the offending article, there’s also been a clump of grass in the vomit too. However – and I’m sorry to pour cold water over this one too – I have to say that this is pure conjecture, and somewhat nonsensical conjecture at that. Dogs are perfectly capable of vomiting all by themselves, without the assistance of grass; I’ve seen too many dogs enjoying a post-prandial mouthful of mixed lawn greens, without any regurgitational side effects, to lend the theory any credence. If you’re worried that eating grass is going to hurt your dog, you can lay that concern to rest right now. The one possible downside is that he’ll irritate his throat or stomach lining, but this issue will only cause him strife for a second or two at most: he’ll either cough the problem away, or will toss his cookies without further ado (which rarely bothers most dogs). Really, grass-eating is nothing to worry about – it’s a life-long habit with many dogs, and if yours does decide that it’s no longer in his best interests, he’ll simply stop eating it all by himself. You may need to keep an eye on him around recently treated lawns, or anywhere where nasties like pesticides, snail bait, and rat poison could be around, since most garden chemicals are highly toxic to dogs. Ideally, you’d be keeping an eye on him anyway if he’s around those substances, but grass-eaters are at higher risk than most since they’re more likely to ingest plant matter that herbicides and other toxic chemicals have been sprayed onto. In addition to this, it’s also best if he’s kept away from those clumps of dried-out grass that lie around on the lawn after it’s been freshly mowed. It shouldn’t be a problem if the grass is mowed by a push-mower; but if it’s been through a gas-operated machine, the grass will be tainted with petrol fumes and grease, which at best will taste horrible and at worst can make him pretty sick. (Fortunately for your peace of mind and your dog’s peace of digestive tract, all but the most food-obsessed dogs will usually spurn this smelly fare in favor of clean, fresh grass.) If your dog’s grass eating is really bothering you, presumably this is out of concern for your lawn, rather than your dog, since there’s ample evidence that dogs suffer no adverse effects from frequent grassy snacks. There are a couple of things you can try doing to reduce his desire to supplement his diet with eatables from the backyard – but, because this is one area of dogdom that nobody really knows that much about (scientists are frankly mystified by the appetite of the average dog for verdure), the success rate is more hit-and-miss than guaranteed: * Try varying his diet slightly. Unlike humans, dogs do not need a widely varied diet to keep them “interested” in food; they’re creatures of routine, and diet is no exception to this rule. However, since one of the theories that attempts to explain why dogs eat grass is centered around a lack of nutritional variety, you can try introducing various tasty vegetables into his food: most dogs enjoy tomatoes, carrots (either steamed or raw) and chopped apples. Be sure to stay well away from grapes, raisins, and onions, since these are toxic to dogs. * Supervise him whenever he’s around grass. This may not be a particularly user-friendly option, especially for off-lead walks; you’ll have to keep a real eagle-eye on your canine walking buddy to make sure he’s not making a dash for the greenery. Realistically, there’s not really a lot you can do about your dog’s grass-eating habit (aside from deny him access to grass utterly, which wouldn’t be fair to your dog and would make your daily dog-walking expeditions more of an exercise in frustration than a relaxing stroll). The general consensus from the experts seems to be that grass-eating, although somewhat of an enigmatic pastime to us humans, is just ‘one of those things’ as far as your dog is concerned. It won’t do him any harm, and you can be sure that if he’s eating it, he’s enjoying it – so there’s really not a lot to be said for depriving him of that simple pleasure. Furthermore, and in addition to the logistics of permitting this penchant, I’ve got to say that watching your dog ripping up and chewing generous mouthfuls of turf with an expression of half-lidded bliss on his face can provide you (and passersby) with some unexpected entertainment when the two of you are out and about together! For further reading … For more information on dog psychology and general canine behavioral traits, with a particular focus on problematic behaviors, you’ll probably want to take a look at Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a complete, detailed manual for the intelligent and responsible owner, and covers everything from obedience training through to preventing and handling a huge variety of common problem behaviors. Well worth checking out! You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training website by clicking on the link for eating grass.

Jumping on the furniture

Deciding whether or not your dog is permitted access to the furniture is a pretty big deal. If you have a big dog, it's an even bigger deal. Furniture access is a matter of some importance for two reasons: firstly, because it's a mighty inconvenient to have to fight for space on your own couch; and secondly, because it strongly relates to the matter of dominance ", which is of the utmost importance as far as a harmonious dog/owner relationship goes. Your dog knows that the furniture – in particular, your bed-is your turf. If he's allowed onto your personal, private territory as a matter of course and whenever they feels like it, that's a pretty big point conceding to him; especially since it's rarely a two-way issue (when was the last time you invaded your dog's own turf and snuggled down for a nap in his bed?). It's best to be aware of these things before making a final decision on furniture access for your dog. If you do decide to allow unimpeded access him, you'll need to make sure that you're extra stringent with the other facets of alpha-dominance to prevent him from getting an over inflated sense of self importance. Generally speaking, it's a good idea to forbid your dog in the access to the furniture outright, until they ' s at least five or six months old. When a puppy's growing up, he's forming the basis of his conceptions as to what constitutes appropriate behavior, and they ' s figuring out his own ranking in the social hierarchy of the household. If he's allowed to leap onto beds, couches and armchairs (the three most-prized pieces of furniture in the house for any dog) at will and from day one, they'll have a skewed view of his own ranking. They won't see it as the privilege that it is: they'll see it as his God-given right, and something to be taken for granted. This does a lot towards equalizing your dog's rank with your own, which – as far as your role as the owner goes – is decidedly not a good thing. To maintain a good relationship with your dog, not only do you need to be the boss, but he needs to know that you are. To prevent attitude problems from developing in adolescence, it's generally best to keep your puppy as humble as possible – which means that they needs to appreciate being allowed up ' is your level '. Rule number one, as far as this issue goes, is consistency. You must be consistent! Once you've made your decision as to whether or not they ' s to be allowed up on the furniture, you will have to stick with that decision, or else – whatever that decision was-you won't have a hope of enforcing it. So, if they ' s to be allowed up on the couch but not the bed, for example, they must never be allowed up is that bed – not even for a moment. If you decide not to allow him up on any furniture at all, you must ensure that nobody counteracts your decision and invites him up there. Changing the rules according to the human whims and impulses isn't fair is your dog. It'll just confuse him. They can't tell the difference between an. new couch and a grubby, just few steps from the old one, or between clean paws and muddy paws. This can have a detrimental effect upon your own peace of mind (not to mention your dry-cleaning bill), and if you take that frustration out on your dog, it's confusing and upsetting for him. This is why, if you're going to allow him any access at all, it's a fantastic idea to impose limits: to teach him that they can't just leap up as and when they chooses, but that they must wait for an invitation. Inviting your dog to join you on the couch is pretty easy. All you have to do is pat the seat next to you, and – in a cheery, friendly tone – say, "Up you get!". Most dogs need little more encouragement than this, and will be up like a shot before the second syllable desktop ' s even passed your lips. You'll also need to enforce the "off" command – this allows you to relax in the knowledge that, when you want some leg room, it's there for the taking; and also reminds your dog, in no uncertain terms, that his furniture access is not a right – it's a privilege! As is to be expected, most dogs are less enthusiastic about obeying the "off" than they are the "up you get" command: is the occasion, you may be required to resort to physical force to maintain obedience. Don't worry, it's not inhumane in the slightest, merely highly effective. Here's what you do:-First of all, supply him with an attractive alternative. Being asked to get off a comfortable couch to lie on the unadorned floor is hardly something he's going to respond to with enthusiastic obedience: set him up for success, not failure, by giving him a comfy dog bed. You can make one yourself, out of towels and pillows, or you can purchase ready-made dog beds in a variety of sizes and materials from the pet store. -When it's time for him to disembark, point to the dog bed and say, "Off" in a calm, authoritative voice. No need to raise your voice or shout: use a no-nonsense, but pleasant, tone. -If there's no immediate response, do not repeat yourself. Keep your arm pointing at the bed, and maintain eye contact. If you have a perceptive dog, often it's enough to simply intensify your expression (raising your eyebrows or tightening your mouth). -Wait for 30 seconds (which will feel like an eternity!). -If there's no response after 30 seconds, you can resort to a physical enforcement of your request. The humane society Physical enforcement, Some owners drag their dogs off by the collar, which is effective in the short-term (provided your dog is of a size that you can physically handle). However, it's not recommended-simply because, as a technique, it allows your dog to demonstrate his refusal to obey you. They can still dig in his paws and strain against your opposing force, which is both downright disrespectful and counteractive to all the alpha-dominant behavioral training in the world. It's much more effective to think smart: make him get off under his own steam, simply by making the couch (or chair, or bed) in uncomfortable for him. To do this, slide your hand, Palm down, under his rear. Slowly slide your arm forwards, using it as a lever to pry him gently and slowly off the couch. It raises his bottom in the air by degrees, which is increasingly uncomfortable for him – enough to make him leap off the couch of his own Rockstar North. This is both more effective, and a lot less physically demanding, than dragging a reluctant dog off by his collar: by making him want to get off when you ask him to, you're strongly enforcing your obedience requirements, which is great for your role as an authority figure. Further Reading For more information on canine psychology and behavioral problems, check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's an absolute goldmine of valuable information and advice for the responsible dog owner, and covers just about every topic you could ever need to raise a happy, healthy, well-adjusted dog – everything from obedience work to correcting problematic behaviors to dog whispering to teaching ' tricks ' is covered in full detail. You can check out Secrets to Dog Training by clicking on the link for jumping dog.

Prevent dog bites: let sleeping pills, lay dogs

Prevent dog bites: let sleeping pills, lay dogs

From: Dennis Fetko, ph. d., "Dr. dog"

What is the truth of the saying, "let sleeping dogs lie"? If a dog is sleeping or in stage awakens and stimulates it, changed something — touch or someone petting his – he can respond for a few seconds before he awake technically. Is reflexively bite is a member of the family — without even knowing that he is doing it!

As part of their survival tools, dogs are very active protection reflexes.Nature, they do not have the luxury of waking slow. When they are older, they are vulnerable to attack.

Therefore, when the dog sleeping wake up by a petting him or someone walking by vathmosht, it can respond to suddenly that the person who provided the stimulation may be strongly bitten more than once — even before the dog is awake sane.

All animals have protection reflexes. If someone starts to look you in the eye, don't you think, "I'd like a flashing" — automatically only blink. This is the case when it comes to dog sleeping — automatically starts its defence reflex.

If a dog bite out of reflex and then you or other parties responsible for punishing him, this is usually not effective.Dog literally you may not know why you are so upset because it may not be the attack since the memory before the reflex he was awake.

Many dog bites of the family-especially children — occur when sleeping dog is concerned. "also, unfortunately, dogs are even euthanized for biting when he wakes up.

So be sure to very young children does not have access to sleeping dogs and that children have a say "let sleeping dogs lie."

The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog behaviorist," he who has appeared vlhtira live on the show TV 20/21, managed reintroduction of captive bred animals Arabian oryx detainee out into the wild of the National Research Center for Arab Saudi, made a presentation to the veterinary Congress of South America in his ebook. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

THE MOST INTELLIGENT POODLE.

The poodle is generally recognized as more wisely intelligent of all members of the breed of dog. There is a general belief is a fop, which is largely occupied by personal decoration, and requires lots of individual attention in his toilet. It may be true that to keep him in the agenda of the exhibition and perfect cleanliness owner needs to devote more consideration to what is necessary in the case of several races. but in other respects, it gives very little difficulty, and all those who are attached to it are consistent in their opinion that he did y no dog so intensely interesting and sensitive as a companion. Qualities of mind and acute powers of reasoning are indeed so great that there is something almost human in its attractiveness and dedication. His ability to learn is never refused, and many stories of his wonderful talent and versatility.

Not only dog as a showman has distinguished himself.There is something more than a mountebank kiosks formed walking the tight rope and stand on the tête.Il is a widgets running enthusiasts, but is its vigilance in the brain which gives him apart from other animals.

Abundant hair and along this dog has the peculiarity that if not constantly brushed kept step off it distorts until few strings which length increase as new hair grow and cling to the old hair sujet.Les here and the growth of new linked together becoming distinct-like cord cords. Finally, if these chords are step cut short, or accidentally ripped off, they drag on the ground and thus prevent the poor animal to move with a certain degree of comfort and freedom.

Corded poodle are very showy and remarkable appearance the mantle, attract much public attention for the presentation of performances;but they have lost popularity among most fans and become scarce because of the obvious fact that it is impossible to pet them or store in maison.La reason for this is that envelope shall, from time to time, be oiled to keep the cords flexible and prevent alignment, and, of course, as their coats can be brushed, the only way to keep the own dog washing him with a corded poodle is a long process and laborieux.En addition, hard hours to dry, and unless the newly washed dog be kept in a warm room it is very likely to catch froid.Le result layer is the poodles cord layers are almost invariably sales and a bit foul-smelling.

General appearance of the poodle

---------------------------

Responsible: Long, straight, thin, skull wide pitch, with a slight point at the back.

Mouth: long (but not snipy) and strong step entirely in cheek teeth white, strong and level; Black gum, black lips and showing no step lippiness.

Eyes: Almond shaped, very dark, full of fire and intelligence.

Nose: Black and sharp.

Ears: The leather long and broad, low value, hanging close to the face.

Neck: Well proportionate and clear admit his head high and with dignity.

Feet: Somewhat low and good form, toes well arched, thick and hard pads.

Legs: Fore-legs set directly from shoulder, with a lot of bones and muscles.

Posterior legs: very muscular and well curved with neckstrap well let down.

Tail: A rather high, well done, never curled or carried over the back.

Coat: Very abundant and good hard texture if cords hanging tight, same ropes; if non-cordons, very thick and strong, the same length, loops narrow and thick, knotless or ropes.

FOXHOUND DOG.

Sandflies was the first canine breeds in the United Kingdom to come under the domination of the breeding scientist. There was a pack of most ancient origin, like the dog in the South and the Bloodhound; but something different was sought towards the end of the 17th century to hunt wild deer had become somewhat scattered after the civil war of Cromwell. The application was therefore for a Lévrier faster known so far, and devoted to the pursuit of people began to reproduce it.

Head:-.

Broad, not reached as the Bloodhound, but the front-end apex long bones, very important eyebrows, cut cheek clean the eye in the nostril, small ears and their thin natural state and shapely, but not great, wide nose, strong jaw and expression level and small dewlaps, fierce and with the best often repellent.

Eyes:-.

Very bright and deep, full of determination, with a highly stable expression .the ' aspect of the Foxhound is very remarkable.

Neck should be perfectly clean, dormeuse Skinless regardless. The length of the neck is of importance, both for fall them and give an air of Majesty.

Shoulders:-.

Blades must be well aft, and should be sloped, otherwise big and strong, to meet the arm should be long and powerful.

Legs and feet.

Must be perfectly straight arm down and down in the same degree of size ankle bone.Knee should be almost flat and level;There should be no curve until arriving at the toes, which should be very strong, round, in the form of chat, and each toe clean the game like it.

Coat:

The dress is hard hair, but short and smooth, the texture is as rigid as bristles, but beautifully laid.

Colour:-.

Belvoir tan, Brown and black, perfectly blended with white markings of shapes and sizes diverses.Le white should be clear and very opaque.Noir and white with tan on the head and foot étouffe.Blaireau brands a sort of grey, light lemon blanc.Jaune foot blanc.Pied Hare, a darker yellow and white.

Height: 23-1/2 to 24 22 22-1/2 inch pouces.Bitches dogs.

How to deal with a jumping dog

Jumping is a really common problem among dogs-or should I say among dog owners? It's rarely a problem for the dogs themselves – in fact, jumping seems to act as a reward in itself. It's a different only of fish for the exasperated owner, who's forced to deal with a new set of muddy footprints/gouges in their skin and clothes/offended guests/scared children! Many owners inadvertently encourage jumping behavior from puppyhood: when a small puppy comes gamboling up to us, wiggling with excitement and making small, clumsy remote at our knees, it's almost natural to lean down and respond in kind. Effectively, we reward that puppy's "jump-y" greeting by reacting with exuberant affection, hugs and kisses. The puppy learns a fast lesson: jumping is a good thing, because it results in plenty of positive attention and physical contact. Your dog doesn't understand the difference between a jump as a small, cute puppy, and a jump as a huge, hairy adult. To a dog, a greeting is a greeting, and just because he's aged by a few hours is no reason to stop jumping – at least, not voluntarily. You'll need to take matters into your own hands, and make it perfectly clear to your dog that jumping is no longer an option. When is jumping not appropriate? Obviously, whether or not you're prepared to accept your dog's insistence is redefining verticality all comes down to personal preference. Many owners of smaller dogs actually expect them to jump up-among toy dog owners, jumping seems to be viewed as a sign of excitement and affection is the dog's behalf. The good news is that these dogs aren't t likely to knock anyone flying when they're feeling rambunctious, and they're small enough that their size usually won't intimidate any but the youngest of children. On the other hand, there's rarely a scenario where strangers will actively welcome being leapt up is by an unknown dog, regardless of said dog's size; really, it's just plain good form to teach your dog the "off" command, so that you're prepared for those incidences when you're not directly on hand to stop the jumping behavior. For owners of large-breed dogs, the "off" (or "no" jump ") command is mandatory. Big dogs are often taller than humans when they rear up on their hind legs (and just imagine the experience from a child's point of view, with a dog's slavering jaws looming above your own head!) – they're often heavy enough to knock smaller adults tip over tail. At the very least, a large dog's paws are heavy enough to gouge long rents in cloth and exposed flesh. Bruising and scratches are unpleasant enough to deal with when they're your own problem; but they're much worse when your dog's inflicted them is somebody else! Really, any kind of jumping that involves anyone apart from yourself is just bad form. All owners with even pretensions of responsibility should arm their dogs with a reliable recall to the "off" command – just in case. Why does jumping happen? The main reason that most dogs jump up is simply out of excitement: it's an enthusiastic greeting, reserved for times when adrenaline's running high and the dog's happy about something. Many dogs don't jump at all, apart from when their owner returns home after a relatively prolonged absence (like the average MOTOKRZR). If your dog is leaping up on you in these circumstances, there's no sinister motivation at work here: they ' s literally jumping for joy. A less common, but more serious, the reason that some dogs will jump is to exert their dominance over you (or over whomever they're jumping is). Dogs are pack animals: they live in designated hierarchies of social rank and order. When a dog needs to assert his dominance over a lesser animal, one way of doing so is to declare physical superiority, which is usually done by "jumping" up ": they'll sling one or both paws over the other dog's shoulders. You'll be able to tell the basic reason for your dog's jumping simply by considering the circumstances surrounding the event. If they only jumps up in periods of great excitement (like during play-time, or when you return home from work) then he's clearly just demonstrating an exuberant frame of mind. If the behavior occurs in a variety of situations, then it's more likely that he's expressing dominance over you, which is a more complex issue – the jumping ' s just a symptom of an underlying attitude and communication issue. Essentially, you'll need to make some serious adjustments to your overall relationship with your dog, and brush up on your Alpha dog techniques (tip: the Secrets to Dog Training has some fantastic resources is coping with a dominant dog – there's a link to the site at the bottom of the page). Four paws on the ground, please! How you react to your dog's jumping plays a big role in whether or not that behavior gets repeated. "You're going to need to make a prolonged effort to be consistent in how you choose to deal with this problem: for your dog to stop jumping, he needs to be taughten that it is never ever acceptable for him to do so. This means that you can't allow him to jump sometimes, but forbid him from doing it at other times. Your dog can't understand the difference between a playful and an irritable mood, or your work and play clothes: all they understands is that, if you allow him to jump up on some occasions, they ' ll try to jump up on you whenever he feels like it, because he doesn't know any better. Stopping the jumping Most trainers agree that the most effective way for you to weed out unwanted behaviors (like jumping) in your dog is also the easiest: all you have to do is simply ignore him whenever he jumps up. The idea is to give him the cold shoulder: withdraw all attention, even negative attention (so no yelling, shoving, or corrections). Here's how to implement this training technique: whenever your dog jumps up on you, turn your back straight away. Since dogs understand body language a lot more clearly than they do the spoken word, you're going to be using your posture to convey the message that such behavior is not acceptable here: fold your arms, turn your back, turn your face away from him and avert your eyes. ' This is where a lot of people make a mistake: they confuse ignoring the behavior with ignoring the dog. You're not ignoring the behavior e.g., you're not carrying is with whatever you were doing as if the jumping wasn ' t happening; you're ignoring your dog. You're still going to react; but your reaction is for you to actively ignore him. The cold shoulder is a really effective way of communicating your displeasure to a dog – they'll catch is very quickly. Without the encouragement of your attention and your reactions to his behavior, they'll calm down very quickly indeed. When to praise When all four paws are on the ground, then – and only then – you can praise the heck out of him! Don't be confused by the proximity of the positive reinforcement to the negative – dogs have a very short "training memory", and are only capable of associating a reaction from you with whatever behavior it is they're exhibiting at the time of that reaction. So, it's perfectly OK for you to react with wild enthusiasm the very second that his paws touch the ground, even if you were cold-shouldering him the split second before. Recommended Reading For more information on understanding and solving canine behavioral problems, you'd probably be interested in checking out Secrets to Dog Training. It's a complete how-to manual for dog owners, and is packed with just about all the information you'll ever need is the dog psychology, canine communication how-to 's, practical advice for dealing with problem behaviors, and detailed step-by-step guides to obedience training. To visit Secrets to Dog Training, just click on the link for jumping dog.

Dogs outside

Dogs outside

From: Dennis Fetko, ph. d., "Dr. dog"

I know hundreds of dog breeds, but what's this "dog out"?Unless you are intolerant of it (so there is no emergency medical take care of it, so you should), execution of a dog to stay out of it waste costly. If it is to protect, what do you think I want to steal your lawn? When you leave, do not insert your Stow and children out of your yard? What exactly is the dog "protection" outside?

Most dogs kept outside cause nuisance barking lot more complaints than any deterrent, escapes to penetration. Complaints such cause teasing, antagonism, dropping poisoning I've lost count of how many times I heard: "NOW I know why you find so many rocks, sticks, cans in my yard! They're throwing them my dog! "or:" so this is why I had to replace the lock to set 17 times in the last year! "the dog victim helpless, and it is no laughing matter

If I bring your dog is outside, your fence protects ME, not the possessions or dog. If I just open the gate to the 9/11 dogs run! I can safely shoot, stab, spear, poison, snare, strangle or dart him through the fence.You lost your dog only and all I steal! if it is possible to keep out of reach, is useless. Bark, but outside the dogs bark so much they are usually ignored. But let a dog to hit the other side of the door or window I break, I'm GONE! I have no pain until it hurt me, and nothing you its worth my arm.Deterrence is effective protection.

And protection against aggression are not the same. Protection is a defensive, tested passive often intimidating or injures any.Active aggression, harmful, offensive, threatening, no dogs in the yard to develop effective often aggression than protectivity because everyone who passes or enter already has a violation of the territory of a dog is dozens of times a day for years. This is not the protection, is not what you want, it overlooks two facts of life today:

1) implicit social contract property owners with others in the community. Carriers of the letter, the boys of paper, delivery people, law enforcement, emergency medical personnel, readers, and meter allowed sometimes your specific property without your permission. Sure it was ten years old this year should jump a fence after his ball, kite, or Frisbee; However, neither you nor your dog is allowed to make him vulnerable if he does.

2) picture this: the neighbor looks into the courtyard or your window and sees you, your wife or your child laying the floor in the pool of blood. they call 9-1-1 and the dog paramedics help! Should they shoot your dog or just to let you die? A great choice. 2) even if the intruder to behave, in a few allow you or your cause physical injury dog avoid loss of property.Convicted felons have sued the owner of the dog from prison, has won more series are was stolen! Appalling, but true. Don't believe your travel insurance covers loss. homeowners now you understand why many feel that "the dog outside" no brainer.

More dog is outside, control your behavioral less easy to troubleshoot. covered four or five than only one space. The reason is simple: the more controlling stimuli from the dog, control its responses. You have more control over your living room than above your County! When he bored but teased by each dog, cat, bird, a squirrel, a motorcycle, paperboy, airplane, effigies, truck backfiring with the rabbit, OF course, dig, the condition in which bark will sit still all day every day?Do extra vtpil medical fee, especially as the age of the dog?

When the dog he alone was taken indoors are still 30% there because the smell and is associate with you constantly remind you of your training.When he leaves, he alone if you home or not.Do you expect to keep you in the whole world teases, hold and stimulates it?

The media is full of stories about dogs family saving everyone during the fire.How many people, including children, have died today if these dogs were kept?Of course, you always get to investigate each time your yard dog barks.And me bridge …This

The dog outside has an address, the name of your dog home. get so much mail he needs its own address? proposal dogs real value is companion animals do you live in your yard? his social safeguard your yard dog? stop the behavior problems and begin to enjoy the swim and protection.

Bring your dogs.

The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog behaviorist," he who has appeared vlhtira live on the show TV 20/21, managed reintroduction of captive bred animals Arabian oryx detainee out into the wild of the National Research Center for Arab Saudi, made a presentation to the veterinary Congress of South America in his ebook. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

Introducing the Family Dog to the New Baby

After the Centre of a baby in to the world you are probably concerned about how your dog is going to react to him or her. Many people surrender their pets to exhibited shelters because of jealousy from their dog after a new baby's arrival and fear of the infant being harmed by the animal. Yet, many families have been successful in introducing their dogs to the new baby. Introducing your dog to you baby is a process that needs time and the utmost of care to ensure a happy and safe dignified process! The steps to ensuring your dog acts appropriately around the baby when he or she is finally taken back to your home are twofold usually – preparing your dog for the concept of arrival and introducing your dog to your infant. Preparing your dog: Preparing your dog for the baby's arrival in advance is one of the best ways to help avoid friction and jealousy between your baby and your dog. Your dog is used to your attention and pampering, some jealousy will naturally surface when your new baby becomes the center of attention. Taking some precautions, a few minutes of quality time and some extra treats can go a long way! Be sure to: • Take your dog to your local Veterinarian for a complete checkup a few weeks before the baby arrives. • Worms and parasites can be harmful to your baby so be sure to worm your dog before the baby arrives and at the normal intervals to keep on top of this problem. If your dog is not spayed or neutered, this is also the time to get it done. • Encourage friends with the concept of "to visit your home to accustom your pet to babies. Supervise all pet and infant interactions. • Allow your dog to explore the baby's sleeping, diaper changing areas, and related items such as baby powder, lotions, and diapers to become familiar with the new smells and objects. Apply baby lotion or powder to your hands, for example, and allow your dog to sniff the new smell. Dogs rely on is their sense of smell, so familiarity with the new baby smells will help him or her recognize the baby as a part of the family. If possible, allow your dog to smell clothing that your baby has used before you bring the baby home. • Accustom your pet to baby-related noises weeks before the baby is expected. For example, play recordings of a baby crying (there are CDs out now for this exact training purpose – (see www.soundtherapy4pets.com/for CDs with baby noises), turn on the mechanical infant swing, and use the rocking chair. Make these positive experiences for your pet by offering a treat or playtime. • Do not allow your dog to sleep on the baby's furniture or play with the baby's toys. Your dog should know that the furniture is not for him or her and should treat it as such. Provide toys for the dog that do not resemble baby toys. A dog may take the toy from the baby's hand and injure the infant unintentionally. • If the baby's room will be off limits to your pet, install a sturdy barrier such as a removable gate (available at pet or baby supply stores) or, for jumpers, even a screen door. Because these barriers still allow your dog to see and hear what's happening in the room, your dog will feel less isolated from the family and more comfortable with the new baby noises. • Use a baby doll to help your pet get used to the real thing. Carry around a swaddled baby doll, take the doll in the stroller when you walk your dog, and use the doll to get your pet used to routine baby activities, such as bathing and diaper changing. • Finally, the location of the hotel is only moments from area attractions and be sure that your dog knows that you and your family are alpha over him or her – this is crucial to ensure you can reprimand your dog should any jealous signs show when the baby is brought home. Introducing your dog to your infant: The actual introduction of your dog to your newborn baby is of utmost importance and the first few meetings can often dictate how your dog responds to your baby in an ongoing basis. For this reason, it is crucial to undertake the introduction process slowly and properly. Tips for the first meeting include: • When the baby comes home, another person should hold the baby while you greet your dog. Your dog has missed you and it is important to pay attention to him or her when you first get home. • Greet your dog happily and bring him or her a new toy as a gift to associate the baby with something positive. After your dog's excitement about your homecoming has dissipated you should start introducing your baby to the dog. • If you are unsure of you dog's behavior, leash or restrain him or her during the introduction. Talk to your dog, pet and encourage him or her to get a good look and sniff the baby's hands and feet. Do not force a reluctant dog by pushing the infant in front of the pet. Allow the pet to explore the new smells at their own pace. Never leave your baby unsupervised with your pet. An infant is incapable of pushing the animal away and your dog may inadvertently smother the child. The actions of a baby may scare your dog and cause it to bite in self-defense. If your dog reacts aggressively, put him or her in another room until it is calm and try the introduction again. • After the initial greeting, you can bring your pet with you to sit next to the baby; reward your pet with treats for appropriate behavior. Remember, you want your pet to view associating with the baby as a positive experience. Again, to prevent anxiety or injury, never force your pet to get near the baby, and always supervise any interaction. • Life will no doubt be hectic caring for your new baby, but try to maintain regular routines as much as possible to help your pet adjust. And be sure to spend one-on-one quality time with your pet each day — it may help to relax you, too. With proper training, supervision, and adjustments, you, your new baby, and your pet should be able to live together safely and happily as one (now larger) family. For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like accustoming your dog to children), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog's learning. You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link for the new baby.

Memories of the dog: how to speed up learning the dog

Memories of the dog: how to speed up learning the dog

From: Dennis Fetko, ph. d., "Dr. dog"

For years I have heard the dog's memory is only three or five or ten minutes long – and then they forget what you taught them. Ah! after move away from people all night, you need to re-teach your dog name every morning?

Notice how this kind of stupid is always an absolute authority on learning, memory, system functions live neurological purchasing? sure!

There's something learned before it must be remembered, must be seen can be learned. If each lecture I'm so distracted by the magnificent dog or a wonderful man did not hear the last comment, I will not remember it because I never heard it, so you never learned it in the first place.

And things ?????? says more impact on and relevance to me than others, so my interest increased certain things makes them much more likely to be retained in memory.

There are things to improve learning and memory powerfully – trauma, for example.Probably not forget something you learned that severely ????????? when happened to you doesn't have to happen ... often. Trauma is a powerful memory improvement. Do you really want to hit, choke or hang a dog?

Fun holcth also improves memory. You probably learned the alphabet at the same age you learned the almost the same tables, from teachers, school, with classmates, and two things were given equal importance.But--no lie!Do you remember much better than the times tables.

Why?Because you learned not only the letters, you can paint on them and play them and sang them and wore them and worked them OUT! were A Billy was C Sally was the t and together have spelled the cat!But north after it was times tables."Six times eight forty-eight! is six times nine is fifty-four!" is not present. unless your work involves mental, probably you would multiply concerned put times tables behind you right after this final exam!

This is not unique to. many years ago when I taught first how to train a dog, I noticed that the dogs learn faster during the sessions of our game in the wake of the class!It may take several minutes, or even several sessions, to ensure that they know the correct responses to commands, but they learned the difference between the "ball", "ring" and "rope" NOW!

They were FUN, things I realized I was vmshashat! teaches faster and efficiently during our session to play more during classes! so, not only did end up (hopefully) teach them anything, they taught me a lot.

I already have many teachers have luck. most of them were animals.

Don't underestimate the dogs if they forgot where memory. hunting good spots were ten minutes later, they have become extinct millions of years ago. improve retention with fun, back vmshashat, dogs impress you with their wonderfully long memories!

The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog behaviorist," he who has appeared vlhtira live on the show TV 20/21, managed reintroduction of captive bred animals Arabian oryx detainee out into the wild of the National Research Center for Arab Saudi, made a presentation to the veterinary Congress of South America in his ebook. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

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Dog Days-how education benefits of pet owners and pet animals

Welcome! If the owner of the pet a new home, or you have a pet for a while, you know, how delicious and frustrating, owns a pet can be.

Import new koiranpentu or dog may be the customer's household joy ylitsepääsemättömiä. when all is not enough as the developed between you and the user's dog.

A dog can provide unconditional love, hours of entertainment and a real friendship. Alternatively, the dog is able to provide an absolute mess, the destruction of the hours and a real distraction!

How can you ensure that the user's dog behaves in a manner not in accordance with the above described Scenario?If you think that the answer is "niche" you can partially correcte. En effect, the race is relevant to the functioning of the dog But yet most author dog activity is based on the training he receives Good dog training resources. [1] [2] to go very far to help him.

The benefits of Training

If you are like most people, you are very occupé. Certains days, it seems enough hours in the care of yourself than to take all the more so the dog! but dog training spend time will reward you and your relationship with the tacit acquiescence on the part of the future.

The five main advantages of the training:

It connects to.

It fixes the problem, use one of the problems.

It stimulates oppineena.

It will encourage the inclusion.

It saves time.

Learn more in detail for each benefit is assumed.

Training connects to.

Is not a better way to create, in the case of a bond from the formation of the user, the dog can think that education begins at the moment, always, when you decide to Try new tricks, but it actually starts to get the user's dog at the same time.

The user's dog is constantly watching and They learn from their own actions. [1] [2], learns how to respond to advice you removed, food, warmth, comfort and the game of its actions. [1] [2] They.

Problems of training to fix the problem.

Barking to anyone travelling at a speed of up to your favourite pillows chewing, digging your own garden in the newly planted bolting the door open ... in front of the window, you see.None of these actions in the case of pet for you?

After you have drawn up a trust relationship with the user's dog, you can teach him how to resolve these issues, their own comportement. Il draw his or her actions are the reactions of acceptable vous. Il undoubtedly be testing its limits!

Training stimulates oppineena.

Yes, it is true that the dogs are very creatures curieuses. Exposition of odour, images and sounds are so, dogs can not help but want to investigate. (c) "is in the nature!

Most of the dogs is the ability to be very intelligent. Mais, they must be encouraged in first and then they can be motivated apprendre. La education is to promote the huge advantage of the user's dog intelligence.

Training to promote inclusion.

"Inclusion" is very important to safety is part of the litter chien. Dès, nice user friendly dog seems to pack section contains packet. Cela's own Household from the beginning.

Dog head coach of the family or of the household may be but all members of the Court of Justice, it is necessary to take the time to train a dog Lorsqu ' receives the indivisible. the attention of all he or she considers as part of the package.

Training saves time.

Another huge advantage special training, user's dog is that it saves the train dog now temps. prendre time really is saving time long terme. Par example, if you enable the user to take the time to train a dog to do this, follow the instructions correctly, can actually be a House, saving time for cleaning a mischievous mess, he can create later – if there are no training.

Sharda Baker

Sharda Baker has released several dogs ebook and Click here for more audios. assistance dog training advice

THE BASSET HOUND DOG.

Collie dog makes an excellent dog sports and it can be taught to do the work of the pointer and the setter, as well as the Spaniel and recovery. It can be trained to perform the duties of other races. He is adept at hunting, having an excellent nose, a good pest-killer and a quarter most trusty, guard and companion.

We know with certainty the origin of the Collie, but his ruse and its external appearance suggests a relationship with the wild dog.Buffon was of the view that it was the true nature, the stock dog and canine species model ensemble.Il considered superior Shepherd instinct and intelligence to all other races, and, with a character in which education has involved relatively small, it is the only fully trained born animal for the service of man.

Illustrates it the type of dog is consistently at the top of the class. It is considered the more simplified and it is certainly the more agile. Second of its kind in favour is the smooth coated variety, a dog very hard, useful, well suited to the work of the Hill and usually very fleet of foot.It is not so sweet temperament as black and white and it is slow to an amis.Il does not exist a dog more graceful and physically beautiful to see that show the current period Collie. Produced from the former type of work, it is now almost a separate breed.

The skull should be gradually gradually to the eyes, flat and moderately wide between the ears.It is only a slight depression to shutdown .the skull width necessarily dependent length of skull and mouth. and all must be considered in the context of the size of the dog. Cheek should not be complete or prominent.

Muzzle should be a fair length nose cone-shaped and must not show weakness or snipy or lippy. Whatever the color of the dog, the nose should be black. The teeth should be fit and sound level. very slight unevenness is permitted. Clean cut and powerful jaws.The eyes are a very important characteristic and give expression to the chien.ils must be of medium size, set a little obliquely, almond shaped and Brown except in the case of Robins, when the eyes are frequently (one or two) blue and white or China. complete expression of intelligence, insight alert rapid when listening. The ears must be small and moderately wide at the base and not too close, but on the top of the skull and not on the side of the head. At rest, they must be transported usually thrown back, but when put forward and transported warning built with slightly pending councils in the attitude of listening.

Neck should be muscular and powerful fair length and slightly arched.The body must be strong, with jailli coasts, deep, broad chest behind the shoulders, which should be in slope, loins very puissants.Le dog must be right.The fore legs should be straight and muscular, or no output to the elbow with a quantity just of bone.the somewhat fleshy forearm, showing flexibility without weak pasterns.Hind - should be muscle on the thighs, clean and sinewy below the shins, with conceals many curved.Feet must be shaped, soles well padded, oval and toes arched and close together.

In general character it is agile active dog, deep chest showing lung power, his strength of neck, shoulder sloping and well curved neckstrap indicating the speed and intelligence of high expression.Il should be a length just on the leg, by giving more than one cloddy racé.En appearance a few words, a Collie should show endurance, activity and intelligence, with actions free vraie.Hauteur dogs should be 22 insurance 24 insurance on the shoulders, insurance bitches 20 to 22 ins.Le weight for dogs is 45-65 lbs, bitches instructed smooth Basset Hound 40 lb differs from gross in his coat, which should be hard, dense and very smooth.

Select the name of your dog

Select the name of your dog

Because the dog is a major barrier confusion to success training, what do you name your dog, how to use this name to determine the success of its training and behavior.

Dogs are vocal, not literal. how words sound is important to them, so consider it, and then select the names and commands.Your dog, the words "not", "know," "accomplished" and "Joe" is the same sound; the dog finds it difficult to know where you are going to. If you name it "was" and "no!" as the reprimand, saying: "was, you know what I want!" reprimands him twice though not intended one single!

You always want the dog to come to you when you call him much how to sense does not make your dog name "achieved", and "no!" as the reprimand your? Is it difficult to know if called him or shouted to him.

Want to be a dog to select the name. There are two ways to do this. First of all, spend enough time with the dog to get to really know the personality and choose an appropriate name. for example, if you are new to us my Husky mix not only jumped at me, he pinned me against the wall and took off my shirt pocket material! I said to my wife: "look at this!I'm getting mugged! "naturally, he became a Mugger! client was very noisy big pup Dayan, I love the name she chose: chaos! Allow the dog to earn the name!

Another way is to create a list of your favorite names and try – voice vmshashat, animated histories on the dog. One to which the dog responds best is IT! And he react differently to different names!Try it!

Contrary to belief, need to change the name of a dog with each new owner.Old thought was that after a recognized name indents, could or should not change it. wrong!Since many owners of mistake by name with the reprimand, or even AS reprimand, if you keep the old name dog you are one of them said – former personnel. If your dog is now, there is no place in a former owner did everything right.If they did, you probably have it.Whether you are trying to tell the dog to be a new start in the new, correct?Then use why old name — especially when he was likely used the worse in the past?

Be sure to teach the dog to its new name by using only the things like dog such as handles, praise, meals, love and affection. don't choose a new name that sounds a lot like the old, such as "where" and "Noah".

Use a new name in a consistent way, definitely only things like dog, within a week or two it should respond nicely we change the names of two of our dogs and now are the old names.

The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog behaviorist," he who has appeared vlhtira live on the show TV 20/21, managed reintroduction of captive bred animals Arabian oryx detainee out into the wild of the National Research Center for Arab Saudi, made a presentation to the veterinary Congress of South America in his ebook. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

Stop dog barking: learn the "quiet" command

Stop dog barking: learn the "quiet" command

By Dennis Fetko, ph. d., "Dr. dog"

Barking Dog into chronic get behavior of the spiral is not getting loaded outside without your help. Excessive barking is bad for your dog is systemic damage such as ulcers and other medical problems.

What can we do about the problem? Well, first implement barking is not bad.Ailey excess is bad.Ailey warn that someone is trying to break into your home! barking about gas leak, the baby crying or smoke or fire is also a plus. Ailey because a butterfly landed in block a meaningless. If the dog is still ten minutes after it left the Ailey mailman, or if he did not stop to bark when you tell him, you have a problem.

The "quiet" command instruction

Behavioral therapy to control barking is not just a gentle, but enjoyable; it is usually a very successful; And that's a very long time.Teach your dog the word "peace" means to stop barking. the simplest way to do so has a dog, causing him to bark by the game or what excited – bark at him, he imitate you. Then a few vcoohniot, gently hold his mouth shut as they say in "quiet".

It should be quiet because you have to shut its mouth. You can then praise him being a quiet chspiam for with something like "well, that's it, quiet good!!"Repeat this several times, soon learned that the word "peace".

It is also the first time was much applauded the dog for shutdown. After the dog knows what a "quiet" means, effectively communicate ששטו is rewarded with actual situation. When the dog starts to bark at something, the first thing you say it, "good dog, it's him!""Good to talk!" that need to confuse the little whipper!. You may first praised him for barking.

Your voice is excited and full of praise. Immediately after that with neutral, "Okay," and then the firm "quiet" and then, of course, you repay the silence by sincerely praise the dog for shutdown. Hear the entire routine like that: "good dog, good talk!""Okay." "Quiet."Quiet good! " Quiet Goooood! "There are already successfully communicated! just exactly what you're going to dog – it's the foreign order bark, but after the initial alert, stop.

If you start this precise routine when the dog is barking things young only apply, you can prevent a problem barking by conditioning the dog to give out one burst, and then shut up automatically.This initial told an intruder burst dog inside and told it to you that someone outside. which means that each-it is over!Anything more and you may lose control over the process tonliot.

The procedure is the same works with adult dogs, too, naturally it takes a long time to break a bad habit than new train, but it is done successfully all the time.Age is no barrier control problem as the problem is not a physical or medical.

Finally, the effort to control your dog's barking best if determine why your dog is barking too much and therefore can ameliorate this circumstance.He is barking to protect its territory from its environment is too stimulating, and abuses or isolation, boredom, or even to bark is accidentally being sanctioned.

In addition, a dominant dog is a prime candidate for occasional barking. household dog missing authority, to assert the superiority of its package, literally shouting his way to success.

There are circumstances beyond barking lot order, so if you want to control Act, not to eliminate it or do you teach your dog that barking all bad, because that's not true. control is the key here, this might be the first and only allowing. with most issues, your goal is to eliminate them.

With the Ailey your goal should be to teach discrimination. never be glad your dog bit you, but surely there are times you would be glad he barked.

The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog behaviorist," he who has appeared vlhtira live on the show TV 20/21, managed reintroduction of captive bred animals Arabian oryx detainee out into the wild of the National Research Center for Arab Saudi, made a presentation to the veterinary Congress of South America in his ebook. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

Use the name of your dog

Use your dog's name

From: Dennis Fetko, ph. d., "Dr. dog"

How to use the name of your dog may cause him a lot of confusion. Your dog to associate related events, see relationships between continuous impressions.He gets excited when you get right out of the hogr? sure, because hogr means walking – a fun event. The means of causes, a plate, I mean a meal, means to cultivate nail nail clippers reach average crop. When you know your dog on many forms, why believe strong associations or likely that no similar to learn things like discounts for the name?

For example, I would say: "Robert, come!" and "Robert, stay!" from me. The next time I say Robert, do I expect to break me or escape? Because I was just stupid enough to teach it meant both! Look at the funny how I can be: "shut up!", Robert"Get down", Robert! "Robert, no!" these are great ways to teach him the word Rover means reprimand. say then: "honey, Rover was cute so today! When he visited the Sam, Robert played so beautiful! Even Karl loved Rover Rover got! "just ignore his name three times, the attention that was talking to him!

What I do wrong so here? first, I taught Rover that name is not to say to him, so he can ignore it. Again, I taught him aka punishment. Third, I taught him meant to stay away from me. But if he doesn't come me each time I read it, I copy the lips! Do you see how we confuse our dogs?

The old faith would use the name of the dog to get his attention, and then use the command to tell him what to do. obtain the attention? What was he doing, concerns about the mortgage?When was the last time you entered the room, DIDN ' T get his attention? this belief also contradicts what we know about learning the dog, like the sequential Association. Know it links related to events, so use why it says what occurs to you?Even without formal explanation, that just doesn't make sense.

Another common belief is wrong is that you must use the name of the dog with all training literally if you have more than one dog. Other dogs do not know who you are talking to. So, too, must be proven wrong.

One of the most common desires of the owner of the dog is a dog to come when they call their own.It is easier to successful more reliably if you uninstall first, for any reason not to come when called. If the meaning of the name is reprimands or stay away from you, sure you gave him the reasons not to come when reading!

Here's the answer: use the name of a dog only when they are written directly to the dog in a positive manner. Say it while you give your dog treats, meals, massages, to love, walks, what he really likes. And it is a command and only ????? "come!" because you came to be among the greatest joys of your dog, so no, who sat with all the positive things in his name is linked with the other. If your dog only times hear his name is "Yes, Robert! Robert good!Robert, here's a treat! there are massage, Robert! " How does he not come to call him?

A very effective way of correcting a dog and avoid literal name is to use specific words."Off!" means to remain on the floor or get out of what is running on."Silence!" means to be quiet, you will not be the bark or howl."Release!" means leave something alone or to release him from his mouth.Now you don't have to!If one or two dogs is/are barking, "peace!" was not only tell them what to do, he tells everyone exactly who you are addresses! quiet dogs know you mean the loudmouths!Same with shutting down, dropping, back, read or what you say.

See? can fix just one dog without using names! not only possible, it is better to do it this way!If I say: "dogs, come!" they all come to me."Girls, come!" and the females arrive."Boys, come!" or "vzchrim. Mugger, come!" and Mugger. where is the problem, or confusion?

The point is very simple: use your dog's name says something contradictory or essence. use it to say only good things directed to this dog and make you a very good thing come. I did it for decades with dozens of my own and thousands of customer dogs all over the world, I know it works well.

Given what you hear on training today, dogs are not only confused!

The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog behaviorist," he who has appeared vlhtira live on the show TV 20/21, managed reintroduction of captive bred animals Arabian oryx detainee out into the wild of the National Research Center for Arab Saudi, made a presentation to the veterinary Congress of South America in his ebook. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

The difference between the lower and commands

Welcome to this issue of our newsletter!

Learning commands can be an excellent way for your dog to behave better and more enjoyable interaction with you and your family. While the commands can be beneficial, many people tend to confuse the two special commands.These commands are "low" and "off" to use these commands appropriate .Apprendre can make a big difference in how your dog responds in certain situations.

The command down

Now that your dog knows the "sit" command, the low command will be a snap! start with lure your dog position "sitting". Take a delight in your right hand between your thumb and forefinger, with your palms facing towards the floor. Your hand is in front of your nose dog.

Lower your hand slowly on the floor behind the right leg of your dog and then again to the buttocks. When drop you food on an angle to the floor, keep the close to your body dog chien.Votre follow the attractiveness and it goes to sleep on his hip.(This is called a "relaxed" is a safe and stable position for the dogs body.)

Once it is lowered to the floor, giving the traiter.Répétez this several times until you're satisfied pass of each time.

Once it does, begin to add his name to the command, such as "Low Rover."Once he is lying, reward him with the process and to give words of praise as "" Yes, Rover, good boy!""

Repeat this exercise several times in different places throughout the House and in the Court back. ensure that there are many distractions autour so that you can work on its concentration too.

Once he has mastered the command "low", placed on the leash and practice walking for the best benefits.

The "Off" command

The "off" command differs from the "down" command you use "off" when you want that your dog for a person or a piece of furniture.Be sure to keep in mind when trying to determine which command is better in some situations.

This command is useful for when you or visitors walk through the front door dog .Votre can get so excited that he stands on his two legs, with its two front legs you or visitors.

The practice of this command have a treat in your right hand and hold high and close to your dog corps.Votre will attempt to achieve it, so move your right arm with the handle to the right and bottom.

When your dog has all four legs on the ground, verbally, are praised and give the times that you're convinced traiter.Une that he will be down every time, begin to say "Rover, off" until it is down to droite.Ensuite, him praise and give a treat to encourage the correct behavior.

Repeat this exercise several times at different locations throughout the House, especially on all doors, where this behavior may occur.

Keep in mind that using the bottom and seaward order in appropriate circumstances, it can make a big difference in how your dog réagit.Besoin help for commands and the application of the lower? good dog training resources can make the process much easier.

Sharda Baker

Sharda Baker has published several dogs ebook and audios.Cliquez here for more assistance dog training advice.

Nipping and play process

Nipping-the playful process and mouthing of your hands and clothes by your dog is particularly common among puppies, but can also occur in older dogs that haven't been taking taughten proper bite. It's natural for the dogs to mouth and nip. They explore the world using their mouths-to a dog, his mouth is as important as eyes and hands are to us. Nipping is very different from true aggression: it's a form of communication, interaction, exploration, and play. From birth, pups use their mouths to explore the den, their mother, and their littermates. From a few weeks old, they use their mouths to play with their siblings: puppies play by process and mouthing each other. Some adult dogs-usually, those with owners who encourage rough play, or who were removed from the litter which nobody at too early an age-retain these same tendencies to nip during play and in moments of emotional duress. Sibling play is actually how young pups learn a very important lesson, called bite and taking into account. If a puppy bites another puppy too hard, the other pup yelps loudly in pain and stops playing with him. This teaches the biter that such a degree of bite force results in an undesirable outcome: social isolation. When other puppies bite him, that's how he learns what that pain feels like. (This is one of the reasons that puppies removed from the litter which nobody too early are often ' maladjusted ' they ' ve missed out has some of the important lessons their mother and littermates have to teach). Even pups that have learned basic taking bite from their siblings usually need to be reconditioned again upon entering their new home: humans are much more easily damaged than dogs, so it's necessary for us to intervene and refine the puppy's bite pressure even further. A dog without any concept of bite and taking is both annoying and dangerous to have around: a harmless play session can rapidly turn into painful ordeal. Puppies aren't t capable of inflicting serious damage-although their little teeth are razor sharp, their jaws are too weak to do much more than elicit a trickle of blood-but an adult dog can do a great deal more than just scratch the surface, and it makes very little difference to a wounded human that the dog "didn't mean to do it"! Here's what to do to teach your dog good bite and taking into account. Note: this same technique is applicable to older dogs, although the same results may take a little longer to attain. -When playing with your puppy or dog, you'll need to choose the level of mouthing that you're prepared to accept. Some owners are content for their dogs to touch their hands with their teeth, as long as no pressure is exerted; others (particularly those with large, strong-jawed dogs) prefer to get the message across that no tooth contact is acceptable whatsoever. -Whenever you reach your level of tolerance with your pup-they might give you a good nip, or they might just grab your fingers gently in his mouth-squeal shrilly and loudly in pain and immediately turn your entire body away from him. Get up and walk a few paces away from him, keeping your face and eyes averted. Don ' t speak to him, and don't touch him. The aim here is for the puppy to be completely socially isolated for the next 20 to 30 seconds-long enough for the lesson to sink in, but not long enough for him to forget what it was that elicited such a response and start playing with something else. (Note: if there are other people present, you'll need to ensure that they mimic your behavior here-don't allow them to start playing with or otherwise paying attention to the puppy or dog, or else all your good work will have been undone). -Most young dogs, and some older ones, seem to have an innate need to chew something-anything! -whenever they're being played with or petted. To keep the focus off your hands, and prevent him from learning what a delightful chew toy your fingers make, supply him with a more appropriate chew: anything with a slight give to it should do the trick. Rawhide bones, the pigs ' Dictionary (old spelling), or squeezy rubber toys all go down a treat. -If they should start snapping for your hands or face while playing, correct him quickly with a sharp, "No!", or "AH-ah-aaah!" They should stop, startled. As soon as he stops, praise him (you're praising the "stopping, not the original behavior-don ' t be confused by their close proximity) and then quickly redirect his attention to an appropriate chew. When his jaws close around it, praise him again and give him a pat. -Never use physical force to correct your dog for inappropriate chewing or mouthing. Not only is it mostly unnecessary, but in most cases it will actually encourage further nipping and process. The cold-shoulder technique (as outlined above) is the most effective, and humane, the Mainland of conveying your displeasure to your dog. They wants to please you: they just has to figure out how to do so. He has a much better chance of doing so if you refrain from corporal punishment and give him 30 seconds of isolation instead. -If your dog's getting really revved up and is making repeated attempts to nip you, despite cold-shouldering him, they might need to cool down a bit. In this case, the ' time out ' method is appropriate: take him to his crate, or to a small room by himself, and leave him there for five minutes to chill out a bit. When it's time to bring him back into the heart of the household, you can start playing again-just try to tone it down a notch or two until you're sure they can tolerate the play without further nipping. -For a dog that needs little encouragement to become overexcited and mouthy (high-energy herding breeds in particular are prone to this), choose non-contact play whenever feasible. Frisbee and fetch are great choices; even tug-of-war, provided your dog knows a reliable ' drop it ' command, is suitable. Avoid rough play like slap-boxing (where you hit the sides of a dog's face gently with open palms) and full-on wrestling at all costs: these games encourage nipping, but also call a dog's instinctive aggression into the mix, which is something to be avoided. Keep games friendly and low-key instead. For more information For further information on typical doggie behavior, including a fantastic resource for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, check out Secrets to Dog Training. Written by a professional dog trainer, it's an absorbing guide that deals with all the subjects (a) a responsible dog owner could ever want to know about-well worth a look. To visit Secrets to Dog Training, just click on the link for process of dog.