Showing posts with label Problems. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Problems. Show all posts

Sunday, January 30, 2011

How to Avoid Dog Biting Problems


Small puppies usually undergo the teething stage, that's why they bite a lot. So, if you have chosen to acquire a young dog, you better prepare yourself for frequent biting. Ready yourself for the dog biting problems that you have to face. However, you do not really have to worry because even if puppy bites may be a little painful, they don't cause any serious injury. Nevertheless, it is best to start training a puppy. Puppies are easier to train compared to older dogs. But it is more preferable not to take the puppy away from its mother until it is ten weeks old. At this age, it is only beginning to learn painful and non-painful biting. So, you better let it play-fight with its siblings first.

Then, once your puppy is old enough for training, you have to tour it around your house and your neighborhood. It needs to become familiar with its surroundings so it will know that it is secured. As you know, unfamiliar surroundings can prompt aggressive behaviors in dogs such as biting, gnawing, and barking. And you and your neighbors will not be pleased if it develops dog biting problems. So, you really have to introduce it to people and places around. You must also allow it to be touched and patted by your family and friends so it will know that these people are allies. Dogs have this predator kind of mentality, and it sees you as its ally. But you must also let it know that you are, in fact, the leader of the pack. So, it must listen and obey you at all times.

Then, you must prevent your dog from being stressed as stress can cause dog biting problems. You have to avoid leaving it alone in your house often, or leaving it in an unfamiliar place. However, leaving for work or travel is inevitable. So, be sure that you train your dog to become used being left in the house. You must also make sure that it does not get into fights with your neighbors' dogs because this might also cause it to become stressed. In addition, you have to show that you love and care for it. You must give it enough attention everyday. It will appreciate even just a simple pat on its head or a rub on its tummy. But you must also walk it regularly and play with it often. You must talk to it and praise it, as well.

Moreover, you have to feed it everyday with nutritious foods. You can buy dog foods in supermarkets. These goods are especially formulated with the necessary nutrients that dogs need. But you can also feed it with cooked meat. Then, you must also not forget to reward it with delicious treats. Hot dogs or cooked pieces of chicken are recommended. So, if you follow these suggestions, you and your dog will have a harmonious relationship. And you will be able to avoid dog biting problems in general, as well.








In order to avoid dog behavior problems you have to train your dog carefully. You can only train your dog well by knowing the right method. You can find everything you need to train your dog here: http://e-training4dogs.com


Friday, January 28, 2011

How to Stop Dog Biting - Simple Training Techniques to Stop Biting Problems Easily & Fast


Many dog owners want to know how to stop dog biting. A dog biting or nipping may start off as being cute or fun, but this can easily develop into a continuous problem. For most dogs, biting is a natural and essential part of their life, and this is especially true for puppies who are teething.

Fortunately, stopping these biting problems can be done easily. One thing you should never do is slap or hit your dog in the face, as this can make your dog develop even bigger problems. Moreover, your dog may think you're playing or could become scared of you.

To stop dog biting problems one of the first things you must do is teach your dog how to control the force of his biting. This will make sure that any biting your dog does, the damage done will not be as bad.

To teach your dog how to control the pressure of his biting you must practice a technique known as play biting. The idea is to get your dog to know when he is biting too hard. Start playing with him and allow him to bite your hands.

When you feel his bite is too hard say "ouch", which will stop the biting. When he lets go you should leave the room to give your dog some time to reflect on what he did, and then return to the room and continue playing with him. Repeat this technique until your dog's biting pressure has dramatically reduced or stopped.

Another technique to stop dog biting problems is effective when you catch the problem early. This technique involves giving your dog a toy or chew bone to redirect the biting. As soon as your dog begins to bite yell "leave it" and replace the inappropriate item he's biting with the chew toy.

Another way to stop dog biting problems is to put a choke collar on your dog and every time he bites you give the collar a sharp tug. This action will make your dog have an unpleasant association with biting you, thus making him stop.

When you're trying to stop dog biting problems it will take consistency with whatever training technique you decide to use for the best results. If you feel you're dealing with a very aggressive dog you should get the help of an experienced dog trainer.








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Friday, December 10, 2010

Dog training-8 Ways to cut down on the activities of the problems

You've performed three of the most important tasks for a dog owner: decided if you were right for a dog, determined what dog was the best for you and taught your best friend some manners. That should be about it, right? Wrong!


You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It's important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don't, all of that training you've done so far will be for naught.


Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren't themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.


Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.


1. Don't forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don't provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:


- Don't let him pull on his leash.


- Don't put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.


- Don't let him get away with bad behavior.


- Always eat before he does.


- Don't chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.


- Don't allow him to bite anyone.


- Always go through doorways before him.


- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.


- Don't give him anything - attention, food, play - without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.


- Don't allow your dog on furniture without your permission.


- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.


When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!


2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn't practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don't give your dog purpose, he'll become bored and develop behavioral problems.


3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you've used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won't listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.


4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child - it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.


Dogs don't respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.


5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he's in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It's important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection


6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he's a puppy, as soon as possible if he's an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.


If you have an adult dog, don't worry. That old saying, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You'll learn the subtleties of your dog's behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an "only dog" how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.


Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:


- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for


recommendations.


- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.


- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.


- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.


- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you'll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.


- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn't always respond to the tried-and-true methods.


- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.


- Be sure to get a list of equipment you'll need to bring with you to your first class.


Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don't feed your dog before class - since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don't forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog's behavior.


7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.


8. Keep your dog's home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!


If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.


If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don't despair! There's nothing to say that you can't start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.


Some problems won't be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn't have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we'll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.


Marilyn Burnham


Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'


The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!


For More Information On Dog Training


Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!

Monday, November 22, 2010

Common house training problems

House training is one of the areas of dog ownership that's most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread!




Today's newsletter is going to deal with two of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training:




-Submissive urination/excited




-Scent marking




Common house training problem # 1: Submissive urination/excited




What is it?




(A) ' submissive urinator ' is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you and any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress-like when you return home at the end of the day, or when they ' s being told off.




Why does it happen?




Puppies are the usual candidates for submissive urination/excited, but it's not uncommon to see adult dogs with the problem as well: usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand.)




When does it happen?


Situations when an excited/fearful dog is likely to urinate:


-Greeting time after a prolonged absence


-Play time


-The arrival of guests


-Stressful situations at home, eg arguments


-During a correction ("you're telling him off)


-Sudden loud noises (thunder, fireworks)




What can I do about it?




Helpful, it's not difficult to "cure" your dog of his submissive/excited urination.




First of all, you should take him to the vet to make sure there's no medical reason for the issue (like diabetes or a bladder infection.)




Next, it's time to take control of the problem:




-Limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively.Don ' t restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there's a situation coming which would normally result in urination – for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon – take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.




-When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don't encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a neutral "hello", a quick pat, and then go about making yourself at home.




-It's important that you DO NOT harshly punish or correct your dog for this behavior. It's not something that they can easily control, and he's certainly not doing it on purpose. When you catch him in the act, you can interrupt him (a firm "No!" followed by praise when they stops should suffice) but don ' t punish him. Keep your cool, and try to be sympathetic: he doesn't mean to do it, after all!




-If he urinates out of fear (submissiveness) when scolding him for another offense, try to take the stress levels down a notch by keeping a firm, authoritative, but not angry tone.Remember, you're dealing with a sensitive, highly-strung dog: if you get angry or worry him further, the problem will worsen.




Como in house training problem # 2: the scent marking




Scent marking-where a dog "marks," his or her territory with urine – is technically not actually a house training problem, since it's based on issues of dominance and territoriality rather than insufficient house training (a dog can be a short stroll from the main house trained but still mark inside the house.)




However, because – since the problem centers around the unwanted presence of urine in the house – it seems logical, in a way, to link this problem with house training: and since this is one of the most widespread problems among dog owners, we thought it worthwhile to include some practical advice.




Scent marking and lack of house training: how to differentiate between the two




Your dog's probably scent marking, rather than genuinely relieving himself, if:




-The amount of urine produced is relatively small, and tends to be directed against vertical surfaces (walls, doors, etc)




-He's male, unneutered, and at least five or six months old.Unneutered dogs are much more territorial than neutered ones – if you have an unneutered dog in the house, you can pretty much expect a certain amount of scent marking.(Unspayed females also mark, but it's less common; spayed and neutered dogs can also exhibit marking behavior, but it's relatively infrequent oscillation-)




-It makes little difference in how often they ' s taken outside for a break, Venezuelan




-They frequently targets items that are new to the house: new as amebix, the Apostles and, guest clothing/footwear, etc




-You live in a multi-dog household and there is a conflict between two or more of the dogs




-There are other, unneutered or unspayed pets in the house




What to do about the problem?




First things first: spay or neuter your dog (s) as soon as you possibly can.If you can do this early enough – ideally, at six months of age-this often halts marking altogether;but if your dog's been marking for a prolonged period of time, he or she may continue to do so after being spayed or neutered, since a pattern of behavior will have been established.




The room was very clean and soiled areas located in a recently renovated historic building.Use a non-fear based cleaner (because it smells just like pee) and stay away from called vinegar too (it smells similar to pee.)Oxi-Clean mixed with warm water is particularly effective;there are also plenty of commercial cleaners designed specifically to lift the pet stains and odors, which you can buy from pet stores and some supermarkets.




Because dogs tend to re-mark the same places, you'll need to on redefine the places that you know they ' s marked to prevent repeat offending.




You can do this in a number of ways:




-Feed him next to or on top of the spot


-Play with him there


-Groom him there


-Put his bed over or next to it


-Spend time there yourself: hang out with a book or sit down and work




If there is rivalry between the dogs in the household, you'll need to take steps to resolve it.Any conflict is likely to be hierarchical in nature (a "power struggle"), which means that all you have to do to stop the tension is pay attention to which dog seems to be more dominant than the other one (which one eats first, gets the toys they/she wants, "stares down" another dog), and reinforce this position.




How to do this: feed the dominant dog first.Pet him/her first.Give him/her a toy before anyone else gets one.This makes it clear to all dogs in the house which one really is the dominant dog – and when this hierarchy ' s been recognizably established, territorial/dominant behaviors like scent marking often vanish overnight.




For more information on how to successfully house train your dog (as well as a whole bunch of in-depth information on house training troubleshooting and related issues), you'll probably want to check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.




It's the complete dog house training guide.The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.




You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link is to house training.


Saturday, November 20, 2010

Leash Problems

Exercise is a major part of our dogs ' lives. Cesar Millan, the "Dog Whisperer", tells us that to maintain a healthy relationship with our beloved pooches, that relationship should consist of 50% of the physical exercise, 25% of the discipline, and 25% of the affection. That's a lot of exercise! In order for us to be able to enjoy exercising our dogs as much as they need, it's important for them to behave well both on the lead. Unfortunately, there are many dogs out there who are afraid of the leash itself – resulting in neurotic, fearful, submissive behavior whenever the lead comes out. In this newsletter, we'll take a look at the most effective way to deal with fear of the leash. Fear of the Leash The majority of the time, the sight of the leash is enough to bring in a fit of joy – the dog knows that leash = are you sure you want to walk, and reacts accordingly. For some dogs, though, the leash connotes fear and submissiveness more than anything else. Perhaps the leash was used in a negative way with a previous owner – as a tool for dragging the dog around. Perhaps it was used to confine the dog for long hours at a time. In some extreme cases, dogs have even been whipped with the leash as punishment. Or perhaps your dog is just very highly strung, and is prone to developing phobias seemingly arbitrarily. Although fear of the leash can have a severely negative impact on your walks with your dog, the good news is that it's easy to cure. You just need some patience and some basic equipment. What you'll need a leash, made of webbing or leather. Approximately 5 feet (1.25 meters) is a good length, as it enables control without risk of the dog getting tangled in the leash when out walking. Chain-link leashes aren't t recommended, as they're hard on the hands – and also can flick the dog in the face, which isn't something you'd want to inflict is any dog, let alone one that's suffering from fear of the leash! -A good-quality collar, again made of leather or nylon webbing. If you're using one with a snap-lock, make sure it's safety-approved and won't come undone under pressure. Slip-chain collars (also known as ' choke-chains ' or ' check-chains ') should never be used on an unattended dog, as they're a training tool, not a real collar. -A little bit of time, and a little bit of patience. What to Do-your aim here is to accustom your dog to the lead a little bit at a time, keeping him well within his comfort zone at each step of the way. Because he's already got a fear of the leash, some discomfort in its presence is to be expected, but watch out for signs of extreme fear: hyperventilating, drooling, submissive urination, rolling eyes (often showing the whites). So step one: remember to take baby steps at all times! -If he's really afraid of the leash, you'll need to accustom him to it very slowly indeed. Practice leaving it out in full view, preferably in ' fun ' places: next to his food bowl, in preferred play areas, near his bed. -Once he's stopped reacting to the sight of it, introduce the leash to him in a more active manner. You can do this by wrapping it around your hand as you pet and groom him. Hold the leash in your hand as you prepare his food; sit by him and find him, with the leash wrapped around your hand, as he eats. Keep this up until he's stopped showing any signs of discomfort – it may take some time, but remember that you're aiming to accustom him comfortably to the leash. Any rushing is counterproductive. -When he's not showing any signs of nervousness with this level of the progress, you can start attaching the leash to his collar. Put him in a sit-stay, using a firm, calm voice, and clip the leash is. Don ' t make a big deal out of it: your dog will take his emotional and psychological cues from your behavior. If you act as though it's not a big deal, they'll follow your lead. -Once the leash is on, give him some time to get used to the sensation of something hanging off his neck. They may get a little panicky at this stage, and start pawing at his neck and trying to rub the leash off along the ground. If he's showing signs of nervousness, distract him with a game: a short game of tug-o-war (providing they knows to drop the toy when you've had enough) is a good idea; if they can run without getting tangled in the leash, play a short game of fetch; or, if the two of you are outside in a safely enclosed area, you can go for a short walk. Don ' t attempt to touch the leash at this stage, just let him walk around freely. -Take the leash off after five minutes or so, and praise him lavishly for being such a good boy. Give him a couple of small, tasty treats, and lots of petting. -Repeat these last three steps several more times before progressing to the next level: you want to give him plenty of opportunities to get used to the sensation of the leash itself before you start using it to control his walking. The more positive associations they forms with the leash (which they will do through the games, walks, and treats while wearing it), the better for his progress. -Next, it's time for a short obedience-training session while he's wearing the leash. Five minutes is plenty: practice a sit-stay and the recall command ("come") while he's wearing the leash. This will reinforce your authority and leadership, and remind him that he's still expected to obey you while wearing the leash. -When they ' s readily obeying your commands with the leash is, you can take him for a short walk while he's wearing it. If they ' s jumpy, do not reinforce his nervousness by rewarding him with attention. Simply ignore him and carry is walking. Remember, he takes his cues from you, so keep calm and wait for it to pass. -If, at any point, you feel that he's simply too nervous to proceed (for example, if he's still panicking after three or four minutes of walking on the leash), go back to the level at which they was last 100% comfortable. Wait a few days at this stage before attempting to proceed. Things to Remember-Remember to be patient! Don ' t attempt to rush your dog's progress: using force is counterproductive to your end goal. You're teaching him to relax and be calm around the leash – if you get stressed or frustrated with his lack of progress, they'll be able to tell, and his anxiety levels will increase, not decrease. -Remember not to indulge his nervousness or coddle him if he plays up or gets nervous. If you react to his crying and trembling with petting and cooing, you are telling him that it's OK to feel like that. If he's nervous, either ignore it and carry, or distract him with a game or short walk. If he's still panic-stricken after three or four minutes, revert to the previous step and give it more time. -This should go without saying, but never correct or punish him for skittishness or nervous behavior – again, it's counterproductive in the extreme. For Further Information For more information on a variety of leash-related problems, as well as a detailed look at the whole spectrum of common canine behavioral problems, you may want to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's a comprehensive training compendium for the responsible owner, and covers just about every topic you could ever need for building and maintaining a happy, healthy relationship with your dog. You can check out the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link for leash problems.


Friday, November 19, 2010

Stop dog behavior problems: be careful what you reward

Stop dog behavior problems: be careful what you reward




Since your dog does not know what you're going to do, will take the message literally training. Enjoy greater success than if you give some thought to exactly what she wants to a dog to learn.


When compatibility retains behavior.When the dog for obeying the command SIT, probably continue to sit when you tell it to do so. This is the definition of strengthening; it strengthens the previous Act and makes it unlikely to recur.


But your dog receives a message often very different than the one you are going to teach. If he jumps to the you, want to stop it, shared access to punish his leap and say "OFF!" as you can get it for you but this method teaches many dogs that are rewarded for getting out of you, is to get out of you until it is to you.


I have thousands of dogs are handled in this way, and years later they still jump to people when reward him for getting off to you, reward him obedience or fault tolerance of your strength.But many dogs learn that they do not earn praise "OFF!" until they jump, so it continues.They willingly tolerate reprimand one second to get a 5 second of praise.


Using the reprimand was held no.A dog you don't jump on you until you have approached.Severe reprimands to deter its approach, its not a jump.


Always first decide what you want to do him to get out of you (or your visitor, sofa, bed, counter) when you tell him, or is it you or it will jump to the first place? if you don't want him to jump you, not to teach him that get after he jumps up get it sanctioned.



The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog behaviorist," he who has appeared vlhtira live on the show TV 20/21, managed reintroduction of captive bred animals Arabian oryx detainee out into the wild of the National Research Center for Arab Saudi, made a presentation to the veterinary Congress of South America in his ebook. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

Friday, November 12, 2010

Paper training your dog: How to do it and common problems

What's paper training?




Paper training is a specific form of house training for your dog: "you're teaching her where in the house is appropriate for her to eliminate (pee or poop).When you paper train your dog, you teach her to only eliminate is newspapers (chosen for their absorbency, ready availability, and cheap cost) which you gather up and throw away after each use.




What options other than paper training do I have for my dog's house training?


There are two ways of effectively, efficiently, and rapidly house training your dog.Paper training is one;the other is something called crate training.




Crate training is based on a dog's basic dislike of soiling where she sleeps, and involves restricting the dog's movement (by putting her in a crate, or small indoor kennel) whenever she cannot be actively supervised.




The difference between crate training and house training?




Paper training and crate training aren't t the same thing.Crate training is where you train your dog to only go outside;paper training is where you train your dog to only go on newspapers.




You cannot train your dog to do both at the same time – the two are mutually exclusive.She'll get confused, and you'll only prolong the training process.




You can choose to use paper training as an intermediary step for eventually only eliminating outside (although not everyone recommends this: it's easier on the dog, and more effective all round, to choose one method and stick with it.)




Why should I choose paper training instead of crate training?




Crate training and paper training are both effective ways to house train your dog.




In general, it's accepted (by most dog trainers and vets) that crate training is the fastest method of house training your dog;but it requires a considerable investment of time and effort, which is not an option for everyone.




Paper training is the best option for you if:




-You don't have easy access to a yard (for example, you live in a hi-rise apartment block)




-It's not easy for you to take your dog outside for any other reason (for example, the elderly or unwell people)




-You have a full-time job, or other time-consuming commitment which can ' t be got around (meaning that you're not able to spend the large amounts of time supervising your dog that crate training requires)




-You're planning is training your dog to go outside the House, eventually, but not just yet (for example, it's the dead of winter with four-foot snow drifts outside)




Crate training is the best option for you if:




-You have a medium to big dog




-You are able to spend a lot of time during your puppy's first weeks of house training in actively supervising her, and are available during the day to let her out of the crate at two-or three-hour intervals




-You want to train your dog to go outside the house right from the start




Paper training is not suitable for all dogs: it really only works for small males and small-to-medium females, since a dog that is larger than these just produces too much waste for the newspaper (and you!) to handle.




How to train your dog in the paper?




First, pick a convenient area of the house for your dog to use as the elimination area. Because she's going to be peeing and pooping in this area, it's best if you can choose somewhere without carpet: most people choose a corner of the kitchen or laundry (since these rooms usually have tiled or linoleum floors, making hygiene a non-issue.)




Spread the newspaper thickly in a corner of this room.At first, you'll need to make the newspaper area pretty big, since your pup has no idea that she's meant to go on the paper at all.




To make sure that she's able to eliminate only on the paper, you'll either need to restrict her movements to the papered area of the floor (which you can do by erecting barriers to keep her in – if the room you've chosen is large or busy, this is probably the most user-friendly option for you), or paper the whole floor (which is a viable option if the paper-the room is small and there's not much thoroughfare.)




At first, your puppy will eliminate pretty much at random on the paper.It's important for the paper-training process that she only gets to go is the paper – you need her to form a strong association between the feeling of paper under her toes, and relieving herself.




After a week or two, you can begin to shrink the papered area of the floor, allowing her more access to unpapered surfaces (leave the barriers where they are for now so she doesn't get the chance to eliminate anywhere else.)




Do this gradually, a couple of sheets at a time.If you ' ve given her enough time to get used to the paper, she should naturally restrict her elimination areas as the papered area shrinks.




NOTE: If at any time she begins to eliminate off the paper, then increase the size of the papered floor surface to the size it was when she was still eliminating only on the paper, and give her more time to get used to it before beginning to reduce the papered area again.




There's no need to panic: this doesn't mean that the paper training isn't working, it just means you're moving a bit too fast for your puppy's capabilities.




Most dogs take a couple of weeks (eight to twelve weeks) to get used to the paper training method.Until she's reliably going on the papers only, you should restrict her access to the rest of the house unless you're actively supervising her-which means 100% of your attention is focused on the pup.




In general, a good rule of thumb is that your puppy is confined to the papered area unless she's sleeping, eating, or being played with/actively supervised.




Things you should do are




-Praise her effusively whenever you see her eliminating the paper.Wait 'til she's done (so you don ' t distract her!) and praise her, her pet, and give her a treat.




-If you catch her in the act of eliminating off-paper, this is actually a great opportunity for training development.Interrupt her with a loud clap, verbalization ("Ah-ah-aaaah!"), or slap your open palm loudly on the wall.This will startle her – in most cases, she'll actually stop mid-Venezuelan and hunch down.Scoop her up immediately and put her on the paper.When she finishes, praise her hugely and give her a treat.




-If you come across an accident after the fact (a wet spot or pile on the unpapered floor), you've missed your window of opportunity to teach her not to do this.You can't tell her off in this case, because she won't understand what she's done wrong;all you can do is to clean it up and supervise her more carefully.If this is happening a lot, you've given her too much freedom in the house and not enough supervision: restrict her access to the unpapered floor, and step up the supervision.




-Feed her at specific, scheduled times (for example, a meal at 8 am, 1 pm, and 7 pm) to encourage her to develop an "elimination timetable".




For further information on house training your dog, including a detailed look at paper training and crate training, check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.




It's the complete dog house training guide.The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.




You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link is the paper training.


Thursday, November 11, 2010

The truth about the dog barking Debarking to solving problems

The truth about the dog barking Debarking to solving problems



From: Dennis Fetko, ph. d., "Dr. dog"



So your dog barking is driving crazy that you and your neighbors ' — an annoyance, the lost sleep, and more. You may have heard about bag dog barking dog debarked solution to problems. Read on to learn about the debarking and its disadvantages.



Debarking, or, as a way to resolve cordectomy rooms dog barking problems is plastic surgery procedure where minor severs veterinarian or removes cords. Violate it is quite immediate. dog cannot make noise with cords of sliced. So there is no waiting period for a lot of it to take effect stop Barking Dog.



The markings are is a distinction that it removes all the barking guard us. including the type and we are saved when the dogs bark to warn us to smoke or intruders.



Debarking often temporary solution barking dog or puppy barking problems problems due to scar formation.Must be repeated, sometimes several times.The dog is not completely silent, but the noise is a sort of like cough – strong, wheezy – is just pitiful.And worst of all, it does nothing to alleviate this destructive dog barking falls victim to emphasize with ulcers and immune to compromise.



In other words, to stop barking dog treats debarking symptom of excessive barking, no problem.Your dog is still barking excessively;Bark loud it simply disappears. getting rid of positive things simultaneously. in addition, there is always risk maardma. generally good not anesthetize unless your dog unless this is necessary.


The author, Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. dog" is a behaviorist vlhtira whose training methods to animal behavior dog can't prove that you do not have to jerk, squirt, or click to train your dog and to prevent problems with its ebook behavior. Dr. dog, FAST, easy, FUN behavior solutions reveals his proven methods for achieving the barking, chewing, digging, jump, pulling and his puppy housetraining methods. Click here for more information.(Replace your affiliate link).

Friday, October 22, 2010

Dog behavior Problems: Help! My dog is a nuisance when he sneezes!

I must admit that I feel disappointed, even sad when I hear dog owners say that assertion. Why? Because these owners have failed to see things from their dog's future! To put it simply, I must say that they don't understand their dogs at all.
Dogs don't misbehave because they're spiteful, or are out to annoy or anger you. they just behaving in a way that there is a dog!
The fact is that the dog behavioral problems that we can t stand no problems at all dogs. actually, you know that misbehave dogs for a reason or two? to list a few:
1. dogs barking because they have something to say, something to tell you.
2. dogs dig because they smell something underground.
3. dogs chew because they are teething and feel uncomfortable.
4. dogs chasing after moving objects because they are following their own instincts.
5. turn aggressive dogs because they want to protect you.
For your information, most dogs actually misbehaved (in our eyes) due to lack of care, concern and training by their owners own:
1. health No dog behaviorists will many & dog trainer believing that at least 20% of all problems related to health behaviour are dog s somehow or other. For all that you might know. your dog might be anomalous because he is sick or in pain.Bring him to the vet for a check-up full, if he suddenly when freeza he has always been a good dog.
2. Unbalance Diet feeding your dog food wrong with too high in protein, fats or carbohydrates is known to cause hyperactivity.Sugars, starches and many other factors in your diet dog s can also cause behavioural problems in your dog.Always read the label of food before you feed him, ask for advice if necessary.Remember that dogs need different kind of food in different stages of their lives.
3. exercise-lack of exercise also cause plenty of problems.To that doesn t get enough exercise is unhealthy and tends to be hyperactive and dog destructive behaviors display. Dogs as needed of type breed plenty of exercises-consider this factor before getting a puppy.
4. lack of leadership I can t emphasize enough the importance of the issue leadership.Dogs display tons of behavioural problems, when it lacks a leader. aggressive behaviour & destructive, lifting his leg, marking, mounting, barking & etc It s very important that you assume the role of leader alpha!
You must understand that the dog all develop behavioral problems. These dog behavior problems ever develop in a vacuum. Are always the result of the interaction between a dog and its environment, including you! Canine more behavioural problems can be controlled if not completely resolved. you just put in some effort and understanding that prevention is better than cure.
Finally, try to see and understand things from your dog's future next time your dog freeza. you'll soon find that you like him even more!
About the author
Written by Moses Chia.
Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of http://dogsobediencetraining.com the resource site for dog training a dog a happier and healthier. you are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

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